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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.